TAKE ME BACK!!!

In my late 30s Levon Helm's Midnight Ramble at "The Barn" re-lit the fire, GOVT Mule and Widespread Panic stoked the fire but New Orleans (the city and all that goes with it) ran a tanker truck filled with gasoline right into that fire and it exploded into an insatiable desire for Good Ol' Funky Music!!!  Upon leaving New Orleans in May, I knew that I had to be back a few times per year. In the meantime, I fed my jones for music by hitting more concerts this summer than many professional musicians (at one point I had a 10 day stretch with 7 shows).  The summer has ended with a pilgrimage back to NOLA.  This time, it was with my brother and two friends for the last weekend in September.  The others allowed me to create the itinerary with a few requirements such as make sure we get to hear some jazz and get  reservations at Clancy's. 

We rolled in on Thursday, dropped our bags off and headed over to Coop's Place for some of the real deal NOLA grub.  Red Fish Meuniere, Red Beans and Rice, Fried Chicken, Fried Crawfish and of course Gumbo was just what we needed to get it started.  Everything about it was right...comfort food with that extra bit of funk.  We topped it off with a walk down the street to have Beignets and Frozen Coffee from Cafe Du Monde (no apologies for being a tourist).  What a way to get the engine started.

As late afternoon approached, it was time to get our funk on.  On the agenda for the evening was a trip to Armstrong Park for a free concert then, Kermit Ruffins at Vaughan's and finally off to the Maple Leaf for the Trio.  Armstrong Park was a last minute addition and I was nervous that the rest of the guys wouldn't like the lineup of The Stooges Brass Band, Jason Neville with Russell Batiste and Friends with the Wild Tchoupitoulas.  The Stooges got up and played there asses off.  Like the best of young New Orleans, they combined Funk, Jazz, Hip Hop, Pop and Rock.  In NOLA, it is not about the style of music, it is just a  matter of whether or not it is good. Russell Batiste followed suit and brought on a funky arrangement with Jason Neville (son of Aaron Neville) on vocals.  The real treat was seeing the Wild Tchoupitoulas, Mardi Gras Indians, get on stage and perform classics like Meet the Boys on the Battlefront.  We got the night started right.

Being a bit tired and hungry, we called an audible, skipped Vaughan's and went to Jacque-Imo's for dinner before seeing The Trio at the Maple Leaf.    The Trio is an act that has a rotating cast but almost always includes New Orleans beat poet, character and solid drummer Johnny Vidacovich.  This night Johnny Sansone was joining Johnny V on stage to sing, play harp and play accordion. This combination of musicians hadn't played together before and they kept the music pretty simple. While I enjoyed myself, this wasn't the hot nasty funk we came to New Orleans for. The other guys really didn't like The Trio so we called it a night after about 4-5 songs.

These three days were a binge.....nasty, funky and flavorful.  I knew before I left that I would eat like I was facing the electric chair and get about as much sleep as if I was studying for finals.  We ate at restaurants like Boucherie (where after saying "OH MY GOD!" so many times, the statement was made "there are no atheists at Boucherie"), Couchon, Dante's Kitchen and Clancy's.  The next night started with a trip to Preservation Hall to listen to some traditional New Orleans Jazz led by Leroy Jones.  Then off to get some funk with the New Orleans Suspects at The Maple Leaf.  The Suspects are comprised of members of The Neville Brothers Band ("Mean" Willie Green-Drums), James Brown Band (Jeff Watkins-Sax), Dirty Dozen Brass Band (Jake Eckert-Guitar) and the Radiators (Reggie Scanlan-Bass).   These men lit it up, covering the classic dirty NOLA sound with originals and covers.  They bring a synergy of sound that is both the combination of all their previous projects but also something that is their own being rounded off with keys and vocals by CR Gruver.    Watch for their star to rise in the New Orleans scene.



The highlight of the weekend was going to Tipitina's for Fess' House Party New Orleans Style- A benefit to preserve and renovate the boyhood home of Henry Roeland Byrd AKA Professor Longhair or Fess.  Tipitina's -which is a bar named after one of Fess' songs- had New Orleans legendary bass player George Porter Jr (founding member of The Meters, 7 Walkers, Runnin' Pardners and countless studio sessions and sit ins) as the musical director.  George recruited his most recent project The Runin' Pardners as the house band.  The first set was a tribute to Fess and the boogie-woogie meets rhythm & blues sound that many associate with New Orleans....some may even call this sound the foundation of Rock & Roll.  After a few tunes, George called Ed "Zeke" Volker of the Radiators out of retirement and on stage to play some of Fess' music.  Zeke also played his tribute to Fess called Long Hard Journey Home.  Then it was time for John Cleary (Absolute Monster Gentlemen, Bonnie Raitt and John Scofield) to take over on the keys.  John's sound is so purely New Orleans that it's hard to believe he is actually as English as the queen herself.  Tip's was on fire and it was time to chill out a bit so George called up Ellis Marsalis, the patriarch of the Marsalis family to play the piano on a few Jazz tunes. As Marsalis walked off the stage George screamed "IS THERE A DOCTOR IN THE HOUSE!!!!?"  Sure enough, there was.  The next generation of Professor Longhair sound is embodied in Mac "Dr John" Rebennack.  Dr John took the stage and the piano with all the attitude that a musician of his stature should. He sat right down and went into a smoking cover of Tipitina.  This is the one that made the trip all worth it.  If it was just this highlight for the weekend, I would have called it a success.  If you have read my blog before, I have defined a high point where the band and audience come together for a climactic experience that I call "the moment"...this was "the moment".  After about 5 tunes and calling John Cleary back on stage the set was over. 

For those that aren't familiar with Fess, here is a little clip from a party that was thrown by Paul and Linda McCartney in 1978:

George let us know not to go anywhere, that he would be back for some "Tie -Die"; his way of telling us that he was going to get funky on the next set.  George put a legendary set together with his Runnin Pardners.  They played Runnin Pardners originals, Meters tunes and a few New Orleans classics such as Oop Poo Pah Doo.



The show had to come to an end but the rest of my middle aged raging friends and I were not ready.  So we hopped a cab back to The Maple Leaf  and caught the end of the 2nd night for the New Orleans Suspects. One early morning meal, a two hour nap and back to the airport for home.   For many this is where they would say that they had their fill and need a rest.   Well, this 9 course degustation of pure NOLA goodness just fanned the fire of my funk appetite......TAKE ME BACK!!!!  

Jazz Fest 2012 2nd Weekend, Night 1-

STARTING THE TRIP
Words cant describe the excitement that I felt going to New Orleans for the first time in my life at 41 years old (but I am going to attempt it). I have planned this trip for months. I have interviewed friends about the fest, the food, the town and even about the music....the music that I have loved for years.  I first got turned on to the sounds of New Orleans with The Grateful Dead's covers of Hey Pocky Way and Aiki-Aikio and their smoking hot collaboration with the Neville Brothers for a show back in 1987 (heard tapes/wasn't there).  Later on my brother and I checked out The Funky Meters at a little New Orleans themed bar (I think it was called The Gulf Coast) on Lincoln Avenue. We were sold on what in my opinion is the single hottest band in history......these guys cooked (more on them later).  That opened the door to The Radiators, The Subdudes, Dr John and a whole host of funky New Orleans goodness.  Even with this love of New Orleans, I never went there.

Stacey (my wife) and I were planning a trip to Puerto Rico.  The routine for our trip in Spring has been my employer flies us somewhere and pays for 3 days at a fancy hotel and we go a few days early or late to spend time on our own without the other employees.  As we were in the middle of planning, I realized that I am not the guy that will sit by the beach or pool and just relax.....I don't enjoy relaxing.  I want to rage, to go places, do stuff and take it in....music, food and culture is what I need. So, I took a look at flying from PR to New Orleans after the reward trip and going to The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival.  Within an hour of the thought, Stacey was sold and I had a room booked and our minds were made up.  I couldn't believe it. This was going to happen  JAZZFEST!!!!!  I was going to get to see people like George Porter Jr (bass player for the Meters) in his element.  Stacey was happy about seeing bands like the Zach Brown Band and the Eagles (who were scheduled for our weekend).I studied the restaurants, the music venues and jazzfest.  I looked at all the options and schedules.  Like peanut butter and chocolate, this made perfect sense. I just needed to be connected with this place.

We got into our hotel around 1:30 and grabbed a bite to eat at K-Paul (Chef Paul Prudhome's signature restaurant). Of course this being New Orleans, we ordered Gumbo and a Shrimp Po' Boy.  After a little walk around the French Quarter and an attempt to nap, we grabbed dinner with my friend (and ex step father) Bob at NOLA (one of Emeril Lagasse's three New Orleans restaurants).  I started with Gumbo and then Shrimp 'n Grits. Great meal/ great company!  On to the music!

BRING ON THE MUSIC- NIGHT 1
We hopped a cab across town to the Maple Leaf to see The Johnny Vidocovich Trio (Johnny Vidocovich, George Porter Jr and June Yamagishi)  with Special Guest Ivan Neville.  When I jumped out of the cab at the Leaf, George Porter Jr, was right there outside. Is this real?  This is one of the inventors of funk music (along with fellow Meters, Art Neville, Zigaboo Modeliste and Leo Nocentelli) and the father of  "funky-ass bass."  I threw all of my desire to be cool away and managed to say "George, can I get a picture with you?" There I was standing next to the man, who 20 years ago funkified my life back in Chicago.  He handles himself like the statesman he is.  After the picture, George went off to the Sushi place next door and Stacey and I went and checked out the Maple Leaf.

The Leaf is a small dive bar with a small music area, about half the size of a basketball court.  The stage looks crowded without the musicians on stage. At the back of the music area there is an outdoor patio where we went to hang out. This was a very cozy little place, with friendly people.  After some conversation with other music lovers, we went in to grab our spot about 10 people back from the stage.  Some tune up and Johnny Vidocovich starts to form a beat on his kit.  This groove was completely organic, not forced at all.  All of a sudden Johny starts into his beat poet routine with a rap "havin' fun.....beatin' on my drums."  George Picks up the groove and away we go.  About a song or two in and Ivan Neville comes on stage to take on the keys.  It is not a grand entrance, it is just another guy making it to his jam session. This band was hot. They didn't play a single song I have ever heard before but that is not what it is about.  This is improvisational give and take.

We were really getting in a grove when Stacey, tapped me on the shoulder to say "I need to go outside, I am really hot" (Stacey has been on meds that have caused heat flashes for the last month.)  She was going to go out back and I would catch up with her at the set break.  She started to say something incomprehensible and then passed out cold.  I grabbed her before she hit the floor and pulled her our of the show using my back to push people out of the way (as politely as possible). We went back to the hotel together and she looked much better.  She explained to me that she wouldn't feel good about me staying in with her when all the music is going on out there (did I mention, Stacey is the coolest wife on earth?)  I got a text from my friend Steve saying that he was leaving the Leaf to see The Bear Creek All Stars at One Eyed Jacks.  I knew nothing about them but was told George Porter Jr was showing up later.  So I went ahead and walked down the street to One Eyed Jack's( on Stacey's insistence.)

One Eyed Jacks was small bar with a back room that looked like a capacity of about 300.  When I walked in, I was blown away by what was happening on stage.  There was Eddie Roberts (of The New Mastersounds) on guitar, Robert Walter (of the Greyboy All Stars) on organ, Nikki Gillespie (now with Dumpstaphunk) on drums. I didn't know the brass section but they were great -Natalie Cressman on Trombone, Jennifer Hartswick on Trumpet, Joe Cohen on Sax and a tuba player whose name I don't know .  The Bear Creek All Stars were laying down some serious old school funk, no vocals just hot jazzy funk. This went on for about an hour and a half. I noticed that the back and side stage was starting to fill up with musicians. It was like word got out around town that this was the place to be.  Each one was impressed and each one was impressive. This was quickly turning into a Jam session for the ages.

After a short break and some stagehands plugging in a new amp, another set started but this time, it was led by the grand statesman of the funky-ass bass, George Porter Jr.

  At points through the night different musicians took the stage without any pomp and ceremony.....they were just as excited to get up there and jam as we were to see them
Here is a line up of who came out (along with the previously mentioned musicians)- It's a virtual "whose who" of modern funk:
Terrence Higgins from The Dirty Dozen Brass Band and The Warren Haynes Band-Drums
Alan Evans- Soulive-Drums
Adam Deitch-Lettuce, Dr Klaw, Break Science, 50cent, John Schofield-Drums
Neal Evans-Soulive, Lettuce - Keys and Tambourine
Roosevelt Collier- Lee Boys-  Lap Steel (A stand-up version of pedal steel)
Mike Wooten-Guitar
Ivan Neville- Dumpstaphunk, Dr Klaw, Keith Richards- Keys
Alicia Chakour-Warren Haynes Band, Nigel Hall Band- Vocals

Nigel Hall- Warren Haynes Band, Nigel Hall Band- Vocals, Keys, Tambourine
Eric Krasno- Lettuce, Soulive, Chapter Two, Dr. Klaw- -Guitar

Will Bernard- guitar
Ryan Zoidis- Lettuce, Shady Horns- Sax
James Casey- Sax
Eric Blooom- Trumpet
There were still a few more whose names I do not know.

The jam went on for another 2 hours.  Just the first night of jazzfest and I was in the most intense musical bliss of my life. No musical experience that I have ever had has compared to this. It was improvisational funk without being pretentious. This was not jamming to screw with my mind, far from it....we were part of this.....all on the same page, performers and crowd alike.  It's hard to think of music as "inclusive" but that might be the best word to describe it.  We were jamming with the musicians.  They were digging each other and bringing out the best of all of us.  When 5:00am rolled around, I was ruined.  It was Thursday morning, and we  had 4 days of music in front of us. New Orleans didn't hold back. It dropped the gauntlet and then kicked my ass in the first round.  It " let me know that all that I had done up until this point was kid's stuff.  I turned to my friend Steve and said "now what?" on the way out; to which he replied with a big smile "It's Jazzfest!"

Here is a nice clip from One Eyed Jack's (George Porter, Eddie Roberts, Nigel Hall, Nikki Gillespie, James Casey, Eric Krasno)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCt7_V4a88w

Stay tuned for Friday, my first day on the fairgrounds